Files - Jack Daniel's trip to Nashville #1/3

Texte Pierre-henri Camy - Date 20 Décembre 2011

"Ladies and gentlemen, boys and girls, welcome to Nashville, Tennessee", dit l'accorte hôtesse de la Delta Airlines alors que nous atterrissons sur la Terre Sainte du Tennessee Whisky et de la country music pour un trip mythique!

A Nashville, il vous faudra inévitablement zoner "downtown", sur son "Broadway" fort pourvu en bars musicaux, ambiancés dès l'après-midi par d'improbables cover bands. Aussi, on y trouve des shops "typiques", où sont proposés chapeaux, bottes et chemises de cowboys (chemises made in China!) et, surtout, des liquettes Wrangler "Western" de bon aloi.

"Ladies and gentlemen, boys and girls, welcome to Nashville, Tennessee", the chipper Delta Airlines attendant said as we landed on the Holy Soil of Tennessee Whisky and country, embarking on trip of legend!

Anyone passing through Nashville will inevitably cruise through "downtown", along the city's "Broadway", stacked with music bars, from the afternoon on bursting with the sounds of improbable cover bands. The street also hosts "typical" Western shops offering cowboy hats, boots, and shirts (made in China!) and the great Wrangler "Western" shirts.

Quand les loups hurlent à la lune, Nashville voit ses clubs envahis d'autochtones et touristes déterminés à jouer de la tiag' pour s'enivrer de tisanes de houblon et de son. Country rurale, urbaine, rock, soul... large est la proposition ici faite à vos oreilles : du Steppenwolf, ZZ Top (on a vu deux types s'embrouiller sur leur "Sharp Dressed Man", car l'un était mal habillé), Stevie Wonder, Aerosmith, AC/DC, Lynyrd Skynyrd ou autres Guns'N'Roses et Waylon Jennings, le fameux outlaw de la scène locale (il signa le générique U.S. de "The Dukes of Hazzard").

Parmi les spots bonnards, on retiendra le resto-club BB King's et ses impressionnants nachos au poulet, à s'envoyer en observant une clientèle pachydermique venue "s'enjailler" sur les reprises du BB King's All Stars mené par un Carl Stewart au timbre de killer.

Pour digérer, direction le Tootsie's, club craspec aux murs blindés de photos de figures notoires ou obscures de la country, où se croisent fermiers et ricains plus aisés, du genre qui bombent le torse dans leurs chemises manches longues et assurent éventuellement de petits pas de danse facilités par leurs chinos "pleated front". Qui a vu le film "Road House" avec feu Patrick Swayze, mais surtout Sam Elliott (icône locale), se fera aisément une idée de l'atmosphère du lieu...

L'élégance était à trouver chez Robert's (et son mur de santiags), là où la clientèle est apprêtée, dans une pure ambiance vestimentaire fiftos. Attention, vous risquez d'y croiser Manuel, légendaire costumier de stars de la country, toujours bien entouré.

Passé 2.00 a.m, le "last call for alcohol" et ses derniers shots de Tennesse Honey (du Jack au miel, addictif), des strips clubs périphériques peuvent s'offrir à vous, proposant parfois la particularité de ne pas servir d'alcool, mais vous invitant à en apporter (!), sous réserve que le spectacle de "strippeuses" en bikini vous satisfasse... No way!

Around the time the wolves start howling at the moon, Nashville's clubs are invaded by natives and tourists determined to get high on beer and music. Rural country, "urban" country, rock, soul... a little bit of everything is offered upon your ears: Steppenwolf, ZZ Top (we saw two dudes starting to fight at their "Sharp Dressed Man", as one of them was really badly dressed), Stevie Wonder, Aerosmith, AC/DC, Lynyrd Skynyrd, or Guns'N'Roses and Waylon Jennings, the famous local scene outlaw. Of all the spots we checked out, we were impressed by BB King's restaurant and bar, with its incredible chicken nachos, best enjoyed while observing a heavy-set crowd come to groove to the covers preformed by the BB King's All Stars, led by one Carl Stewart, a man with killer tones.

In Nashville, you should also head towards Tootsie's (which walls are plastered with photos of country's darkest and most notorious figures), a meeting spot for farmers and well-to-do types alike, the kind who thrust out their chests in their long-sleeved button downs before hitting the short dance steps permitted by their pleated front chinos. Anyone who's seen the film "Road House" with the late Patrick Swayze, and, more importantly, featuring local icon Sam Elliott, knows the kind of place I'm talking about...

More elegant surroundings were found at Robert's (along with his wall of cowboy boots), where the clientele is impeccably dressed, giving off an air of fifties style. Warning: you might run into Manuel, legendary clothier of country stars, always surrounded by pretty chicks.

After the "last call for alcohol" at 2.00 am and the final shots of Tennessee Honey (Jack and honey, addictive), the strip clubs around the edges of town are at your disposal, despite the occasional particularity of not serving alcohol. You're invited to bring your own, as long as you can be satisfied by "strippers" in bikinis... No way!